The parts of a Western bridle are the crown piece, the browband or ear piece, the cheek pieces and the bit ends they finish in, the throatlatch, the curb strap and the reins, plus the bit itself and the buckles and keepers that hold it all together. I build headstalls, reins and curb straps in my shop in Eminence, Indiana, and I ride in both browband and one-ear headstalls. This guide labels every part on a real headstall, explains what each one does, and covers how I like each part to fit.
Labeled diagram of a Western bridle
Here's the near side of a browband headstall on a horse, with every visible part labeled. If you want the same thing for the saddle, see the parts of a Western saddle.
Headstall or bridle: what's the difference?
A bridle is three things: a headstall, a bit and reins. The headstall is the leather part on the horse's head. Most Western riders use the two words for the same thing. The difference matters when you're buying, because a headstall listing usually doesn't include a bit or reins, mine included.
The crown piece
The crown piece is the strap that lies over the poll, right behind the ears. Everything else hangs off it, so it carries the weight of the bridle and the bit. It should lie flat behind the ears with no edge digging in. Rubbed or flattened hair right behind the ears is a sign something isn't sitting right.
Browband or one ear?
A browband headstall goes around both ears, with a strap across the forehead and a throatlatch under the throat. A one-ear headstall goes around only one ear, has no throatlatch, and comes as a sliding one ear or a split ear. A one-ear is no safer than a browband; the difference is mostly looks and fit, and I go through when I use each one in browband vs one-ear headstall.
The one on the diagram. Doubled and stitched, adjusts from 28" to 41". Decorative or solid stainless buckle.
The cheek pieces and buckles
The cheek pieces run from the crown down each side of the face to the bit. They're the main adjustment on the bridle. Lengthen or shorten them and you change where the bit sits in the mouth.
If they're too long, the bit hangs low and can bang the teeth, and some horses learn to get their tongue over it. If they're too short, the bit gets pulled up into the corners of the mouth and puts constant pressure there. Most people aim for the bit to sit snug in the corners without hanging low. How it should sit varies with the bit and the curb, so there's no hard and fast rule. If you're not sure, ask me or any equine professional to look at it.
Keep the buckles on the same hole on both sides so the bit hangs straight, and near the middle holes so you have room to adjust when you change bits.
One thing I'm a big believer in: no extra leather past the buckles flopping on the horse's face. I see it all the time, even on high-end trainers' horses, with a big loop of strap end hanging out. The horse still catches it in its peripheral vision. Get a headstall that actually fits your horse, so the ends sit in the keepers where they belong.
The throatlatch
The throatlatch runs from behind one ear, under the throat, and buckles on the side. Its only job is keeping the bridle on the horse's head. It should be loose enough that the horse can flex at the poll and breathe easy, and snug enough that the bridle can't be rubbed or shaken off over the ears. Browband headstalls have one. One-ear headstalls don't.
Bit ends: how the headstall attaches to the bit
The bit end is the bottom of the cheek piece, where it connects to the bit. If it lets go, you've lost your steering and your brakes, so it's worth checking every time you bridle.
| Bit end | How it works | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Leather tie or water tie | A leather strap tied through the bit ring | Ties weather over time; check them and replace them when they wear |
| Buckle | Buckles through the bit ring | Easy to adjust and change bits; keep the hardware clean |
| Snap | Clips on and off fast | Convenient, but one more thing that can fail; keep it clean and check it often |
| Chicago screw | A screw post holds the leather on the ring | Check that the screws are tight before you ride |
On my own horses, I use water loops when the reins stay on one bridle and buckle ends when I move reins from bridle to bridle. Water loops are cheap to replace; mine are $12 a pair.
The curb strap: where it goes and how tight
The curb strap, also called a chin strap, runs under the chin groove, and on a shanked bit it's what the shanks work against when you pick up the reins. I set a chin strap with two fingers between the chin and the strap, attached up by the corners of the mouth, so it tightens in a nice, consistent way when I pick up the reins. I check it every time I put a headstall on, and I cover the whole adjustment, plus the curb straps and chains I offer, in how tight should a curb chain be.
3/4" bridle leather, doubled and stitched. The ear piece slides on the crown. Adjusts 35" to 42".
The reins
Reins are usually sold separately. I build split reins and one-piece reins, and I cut both reins in a pair side by side from the same side of leather so they weigh and hang the same. My guide on how to choose Western reins goes through length, width and feel.
What makes a headstall good instead of cheap?
Leather built from the very best materials, with the best craftsmanship, should last forever. It costs a little more, but it's cheaper in the long run. Here's what I look for:
- The leather. My headstalls are bridle leather. The tannery tans it to my spec, almost a cross between bridle and harness, and the way I finish it makes it technically bridle leather. All of my leather comes from United States hides. More in harness vs bridle vs latigo leather.
- Doubled and stitched. Almost everything I make is better double-plied, and my headstalls are.
- The edges. Run your thumb down the edge. It should be beveled smooth and round, so it's comfortable on the horse's face. A square, fuzzy or painted edge is a sign of cheap work.
- The hardware. Look for stainless steel or solid brass. I use solid stainless hardware.
What size headstall does my horse need?
Western headstall sizing isn't standardized, so measure your horse and compare it to the adjustment range the maker lists. To measure, run a tape from one corner of the mouth, up the side of the face, over the poll behind the ears and down to the other corner. My browband headstalls adjust from 28" to 41", and my one-ears adjust from 35" to 42". That covers most horses.
If your horse is anywhere from pony to draft size and you're not sure, contact me with measurements and I'll help you get one that fits. Fit changes with the bit and curb strap, so recheck the adjustment any time you change bits.
Every part at a glance
| Part | What it does | How it should fit |
|---|---|---|
| Crown piece | Carries the bridle over the poll | Flat behind the ears, nothing digging in |
| Browband | Holds the crown in place across the forehead | Lies flat, not pulling the crown into the back of the ears |
| Ear piece | Holds a one-ear headstall in place | Around the ear without pinching |
| Cheek pieces | Set where the bit sits | Same hole both sides, near the middle holes, no extra leather flopping |
| Throatlatch | Keeps the bridle from coming off over the ears | Room for the horse to flex and breathe, snug enough to stay on |
| Bit ends | Connect the cheeks to the bit | Tied or buckled tight; check every ride |
| Curb strap | What a shanked bit works against | Two fingers of room; tightens smoothly when you pick up the reins |
| Reins | Carry your hands to the bit | Matched weight and length; ties and water loops in good shape |
| Keepers | Hold strap ends flat | Snug; strap ends tucked in |
Taking care of a headstall
Arena sand gets into the fibers and works like sandpaper, so brush or wipe your headstall off after you ride. When you clean it, brush off the dirt, clean it with a liquid saddle soap, let it dry completely and put on a thin coat of a conditioner like Skidmore's. Let it sit a day, then wipe it down with saddle soap again. The full routine is in how to clean and condition leather. I'll also clean and condition anything I sell for free, for life. Get it to me and I'll ship it back at my cost.
Everything I make has a lifetime warranty. It covers anything that breaks or fails in normal use. Parts that wear with use, like latigos and off billets, aren't covered once they've worn out. If it can be repaired, I'll repair it. If it can't, I'll replace it, at no charge. The details are on the warranty and leather care page, and you can see all my headstalls here.
Frequently asked questions
What are the parts of a Western bridle called?
The crown piece over the poll, the browband or an ear piece, two cheek pieces running down to the bit, the throatlatch under the throat, the bit ends, the curb strap under the chin and the reins. The buckles and keepers hold it together.
What does a throatlatch do?
It keeps the bridle on the horse's head. The throatlatch runs from behind one ear, under the throat, and buckles on the side. It should be loose enough for the horse to flex at the poll and breathe easy, and snug enough that the bridle can't be rubbed or shaken off over the ears. Browband headstalls have one; one-ear headstalls don't.
What are bit ends and which is best?
Bit ends are the bottom of the cheek pieces, where the headstall attaches to the bit: leather ties or water ties, buckles, snaps or Chicago screws. Ties weather over time, buckles make it easy to change bits, snaps are convenient but one more thing that can fail, and Chicago screws need to be checked for tightness. Whichever kind you have, check it every time you bridle, because if it lets go you've lost your steering and your brakes.
How should a Western headstall fit?
The crown flat behind the ears, the bit snug in the corners of the mouth without hanging low, the cheek buckles on the same hole both sides near the middle holes, and no extra leather flopping past the buckles. Fit changes with the bit and curb, so ask me or an equine professional if you're unsure.
Tyler has been building Western tack for more than fifteen years, the last six of them full time, from the shop at his house in Eminence, Indiana. Growing up around some of the top professionals in the pleasure horse, barrel racing and racehorse worlds gave him the chance to ride high-quality horses in each of those disciplines, and years spent as a pickup man and riding ranch horses today are where most of his ideas for better tack come from. Every piece he builds is made in the USA and guaranteed for life.
